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东江海鲜酒家 Chinatown Express Restaurant 2003 WASHINGTONIAN 100 BEST BARGAIN RESTAURANTS Chinatown Why would this sub-sidewalk-level restaurant catch the eye of a New York Times reviewer exploring the hot restaurant scene around the MCI center? For the same reason Chinatown Express attracts Chinese diners: Against a backdrop of crisp-skinner, Cantonese-style roasted meats-soy-sauce chicken, firecracker-red pork tenderloin, whole pig, and ducks the color of clover honey-a chef demonstrates the art of lai mein, an amazing trick of Chinese culinary magic that means " stretched noodles." Through lunch and dinner, the chef repeatedly stretches and twirls a thick rope of chalk-white dough until a snapping pull from his outstretched arms causes it to break into dozens of spaghetti-like strands. The noodles are then placed on trays and rushed to the kitchen, where they go into a meal-in-bowl soups or are stir-fried with the diner's choice of meats or seafood. The regular menu is humdrum list or Chinese-American and Cantonese dishes. On a separate sheet you'll find the house specialties, beyond the ai mein and the roasted meats, being enjoyed at eh Chinese tables. Look for broth-filled Shanghai dumplings under the cryptic listing "steamed Bun (Pork) )(8 Pieces)," the delicious Fresh dumpling Made on the Spot with a choice of several fillings, and Sautéed Green Leaf with Garlic Sauce, a stir-fry of the top part of the snow-pea plant. Chinatown Express, 746 sixth street, NW (202) 638-0424 Washingtonian June 2003 |
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507 H St NW Washington, DC 20001 |
